Fig the Leopard (Part 5)

 

Two days on safari with two leopard sightings: can you ever see too many leopards? Never!

Day 3 on safari we caught sight of a white tail tip riding high above the long grass. The ground was wet and slick with mud after an afternoon downpour. With incredible skill, Nelson—our driver—caught up and intercepted a beautiful female leopard as she leapt over the creek with ease and grace. I couldn’t believe our good fortune when he announced it was Figlet. When I met her two years ago, she was a young cub. Now a mature leopard, Figlet, with a signature bright white tail, was as beautiful and self-assured as her mother Fig.

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Nelson revved the wheels and maneuvered the truck so we were directly in Figlet’s path. Undeterred she came straight for us, her eyes focused on some unseen destination.

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Just like her mother, Figlet ignored the vehicle and stayed on course. As she slipped close by me I got a few shots of the beautiful spots spilling down her neck and shoulders and growing into rosettes on her ribs and spine. We watched her white tail long after her body disappeared into the tall grass.

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Midweek we changed camps and moved further north in the Olare Motorogi Conservancy. I was delighted to meet Betty Maitai, one of the first female Maasai guides and drivers on the Mara, the sister of Domenic Maitai, my guide in April 2019. I rode with Betty and her spotter Gladys Kisemeio for most of the game drives the rest of the week. Betty and Gladys were a great team; they knew the territory and had uncanny skill in avoiding mudholes and finding wildlife.

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On January 15th, Betty pulled up on the crest of a hill. Below us, a semi circle of trucks fanned out around a termite mound. Something interesting was going on down there. However, the rules on the Mara are strict and there was a full quota of 6 vehicles below with a ranger’s truck nearby making sure no one crowded whatever people were watching. We had to wait for somebody to leave before we could go down. Finally, a group gave up and pulled away. Betty moved in without hesitation. When she pulled up beside the termite mound there was... you guessed it, a leopard crouched in the shadow at the base. It was Fig. “C’mon Fig,” I implored, my telepathic skills working overtime. “Come out of the shadow Fig. Climb that mound Fig. Do your thing Fig!” We waited; Fig waited. Then, as if on cue, with the sun setting to the west, Fig began to climb the mound.

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Like the film star she is, Fig entered center stage and camera shutters whirred in appreciation. Fig performed on cue for her fans. As the sun set, she turned her face, basking in the last light of the day and surveilled the savannah. What a finale. Asante sana (thank you) Fig. Hopefully she is currently enjoying some quiet time with her new family born in the Time of Corona while we isolate at home. I will definitely keep you posted if I hear any news.

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