“Do you know why hippos open their mouths so wide?” asked Daniel, my Maasai guide. “No, why?” I asked, sensing a creation story in the making.
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The maniacal whoops of spotted hyenas sent a shiver of excitement down my spine as I pulled the covers up to my chin and wriggled my toes on the hot water bottle at the foot of my bed. What was going on out there in the dark beyond my tent?
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