Safari Lullaby

True solitude is found in the wild places, where one's inner voices become audible. Wendell Berry

Samburu warriors dance around the fire ©kathykarn

Travel Africa’s latest issue asked readers for favourite stories of sleeping on safari. The invitation evoked a fond memory of falling asleep at Sarara Camp in Northern Kenya.  As I snuggled under the covers, my toes curled around a warm hot water bottle at the foot of my bed, I heard low rumbles in the dark. My heart quickened realizing elephants were close by. 

There was a … RRRRrrrrrrrr … and then a pause, followed by another rrrrrrRRRR …. in a different tone. It felt like I was eavesdropping on a conversation. I slipped out of bed, slowly unzipped the tent’s door onto the porch and peered into the darkness below. Standing at the raised edge of the water hole were two bull elephants hanging out like a pair of old boys at the pub after the wife and kids had gone home. The bulls loitered at the bar, drinking as much as they wanted enjoying a companionable moment and catching up on the latest news.  It was the quintessential image of a relaxed elephant duo.

The chill of the night air forced me to retreat to the warmth of my cozy bed. Listening to the old boys’ tête-à-tête as I drifted off to sleep reminded me of being a little kid. You know, when your parents are downstairs and you can just hear the comforting murmuring of their voices. You can’t hear what they are saying, and it really doesn’t matter, you just know that all is well with world and life is good; the best lullaby ever.

Elephants drinking at the water hole Sarara Camp ©kathykarn

A tough reach for a short trunk ©kathykarn

Heading home ©kathykarn

Lone bull at the waterhole ©kathykarn

Naptime view from my bed. Sarara Camp ©kathykarn

View over the waterhole from the pool at Sarara Camp. Perhaps these were the two bulls from the previous night. Photo Credit Tessa Clark

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