The baby elephant flared its ears and shifted its weight back and forth from leg to leg. I was shaken with surprise; it took a minute for my heart to settle. “You’re okay,” I said quietly as I took a breath. “You’ll be okay here. It’s going to be all right. I know you are frightened and wondering where your mum is, where your family is. There are friends here who will take care of you.”

Zebras sport one of nature’s most recognizable patterns. Several African animals have made an impact in the design world, but who can resist the distinctive black and white stripes of the zebra? Just like our fingerprints, every zebra’s pattern is unique. Is the zebra a white horse with black stripes or a black horse with white stripes?

When I met her two years ago, Figlet was a young cub. Now a mature leopard, with a signature bright white tail, she was as beautiful and self-assured as her mother Fig. Nelson revved the wheels and maneuvered the truck so we were directly in Figlet’s path. Undeterred she came straight for us, her eyes focused on some unseen destination.

When I met her two years ago, Figlet was a young cub. Now a mature leopard, with a signature bright white tail, she was as beautiful and self-assured as her mother Fig. Nelson revved the wheels and maneuvered the truck so we were directly in Figlet’s path. Undeterred she came straight for us, her eyes focused on some unseen destination.

Dominic found a tree with remains of a carcass in it, a sure sign a leopard was nearby. A couple of times the radio crackled with news of a sighting. We drove up and down the river corridor, my eyes aching with the effort of trying to separate leaves from leopard spots. Nothing. Not a whisker, not a blink, not a white tail tip. We laughed, imagining the leopard enjoying our antics from the security of his or her secret spot…

They say a leopard’s eyes are blue—this was the day I learned it’s true. Fig is like an alluring siren. There comes a choice point on safari when the action seems to come to a natural close— stay or go? The curve of vehicles that had gathered a respectful distance from Fig’s tree began to break up, heading off to search for other wildlife. We hesitated. Fig is like an alluring siren. Caught in her magnetic appeal, we stayed…

It was still dark, with a faint hint of light on the horizon when the call came in to our guides— leopard sighting out on the savannah under a lone tree. We hastily climbed into the trucks, pulling our hats down around our ears in the chill of the African morning…

Getting a glimpse of a leopard is always a thrill; they are such secretive and exotic cats. When we pulled up along the creek there was a commotion in the bushes—sex in the shrubbery! A few minutes later a gorgeous female leopard strolled out—hello Fig.

I have lots of hope. And when I’m in a natural, wild place, then I remember. I remember that I need to think more consciously. That I need to make more conscious choices. I think we learn more through delight and awe and wonder than we do through lectures about how nasty we are and how stupid we are. So that’s the gate I want to come through.

I couldn’t believe our luck when we discovered a “journey” of giraffes browsing beside the road early in the morning. Two young calves hung out together, simultaneously curious and hesitant about us. They trained their eyes and ears on our vehicles. When the calf turned to look at me, I could see that her ears and nose were still crusted with fluid from her mother’s womb. So young, so new, so beautiful.

My head turned abruptly at sudden action and loud trumpeting at the edge of my peripheral vision. I craned my neck to see what was happening from my cramped position on the floor of the safari vehicle. A family of 7 elephants, trunks and tails held high, were running pell-mell across the savannah. A large matriarch shook her head wildly as she raced towards us in panic…

All sacred journeys require a guide. Three nights, that’s all I had in Amboseli. Three nights, a long weekend really, yet those 3 nights and corresponding days changed me. My time in Amboseli was a spiritual quest, not just a photographic safari. I did not acknowledge that when I booked those 3 nights in January 2020. I only know this now, in hindsight.

I did my best yesterday to haul myself out of a deep sense of grief. I felt lost. I missed being with my children and grandchildren on this holiday weekend. I could not shift it. There was grief in my body, in the news, in the atmosphere. It would not go away.

Uncertainty makes us nervous. The adjectives “unprecedented,” “uncharted,” and “uncertain” are clichés in the Time of Corona. Daily life on the savannah of the Maasai Mara is a drama that lives every minute in “uncertain time.” Every morning is a triumph of the survival of a species and a potential meal for another.

The sense that the endless procession of elephants was for my personal growth? I balked at the thought—to claim such sacred moment for myself felt egotistical. Yet that’s how it felt. … My time in Amboseli continues to speak to me, like a dream that is so big that it refuses to let me forget and slip back into unconsciousness.

I know stories of elephants mourning.  I know they visit the bones of their family members where they have died.  I’ve seen the skulls, been told how the elephants touch them, smell them with their trunks. I’ve heard about elephant mothers that stand by a baby’s corpse for days.  I’ve heard how elephants will try to lift up a recently dead family member, how they call out, trumpet, and shuffle around the body.

I was awestruck – these elephants were HUGE. We were so CLOSE! “I’ll see if I can get closer,” said Julius. “Closer?!” the danger signal in my brain squeaked, as Julius navigated through the bushes to the other side of the tree revealing Tim in full view. The huge bulls gazed at us, nonplussed by the intrusion, eventually sauntering out into the open to graze.

The Big Tusker Tim is dead. I am shocked and heartbroken. On January 7th, I flew to Amboseli following my dream of seeing the Big Tuskers of Amboseli, Kenya’s largest elephants. Images of Tim, a massive elephant of 6+ tons, a global celebrity and icon for wildlife protection, fueled my imagination…

Watching the sun rise on the Maasai Mara fuels attention and astonishment. Seeing Africa’s iconic lions in their natural setting is like stepping through the TV screen into the magic of Africa. Even after a few years of game drives in Kenya, being in the midst of African wildlife still feels like a pinch me moment.